Oidemase! That means “welcome” in Yamaguchi dialect.
“Where exactly is Yamaguchi?” we hear you ask. The westernmost prefecture on Honshu, it might not be the first place that first-time visitors to Japan will think of visiting, though we certainly hope that will change in the near future.
Yamaguchi doesn’t have the bright lights and huge shopping areas of Tokyo, nor the ski slopes of Hokkaido. But it certainly has a lot of other things to offer, especially if you’ve always been fascinated by Japanese history, or wanted to see how people lived outside of the big cities.
Take things down a notch by visiting laidback Hagi City. In Hagi, cottage industries that have been around for more than a century still thrive today, oftentimes still employing the same methods used to produce their goods. The city also has a lot to offer by way of natural scenery; the picture you see here is of the Kasayama Camellia Forest. The best time to visit is during spring; that’s when you’ll see the ground littered with beautiful camellia flowers.
For some much needed rest and relaxation, head straight to Yamaguchi City, the capital of the prefecture and home to the Yuda Onsen. Here, you’ll have your pick of luxurious Ryokans with hot springs. It’s heaven on earth for the weary city-dweller hoping to get away from it all for a little while.
Of course, what’s a trip to Japan without sampling its culinary delights? When you’re in Yamaguchi prefecture, you can eat your fill of the famed puffer fish prepared in a variety of ways, and at half the price you’ll pay in Tokyo.
In the next few pages, Oishii recommends things to see and do, try and eat in Yamaguchi prefecture. We certainly hope it’ll inspire you to go off the beaten track and visit this amazing place for yourself. We, for one, can’t wait to go back!
(text denise li photography moritsugu makitao)
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Get To Know Hagi City
Hagi city is of historical significance as it was home to political figures who were instrumental in the modernisation of Japan during the Meiji Restoration. Its streets and buildings are still well-preserved today, and definitely worth a visit.
For the History Buffs
The Mori clan ruled the Choshu domain during the Edo area. During this time, they built Hagi Castle. Though only ruins remain today, you can still see the efforts of Mori city planning in the area surrounding the castle.
Other well-preserved relics from the same period include the Yukawa Family Old Residence. The grounds feature a specially constructed canal that runs from the river into the house, and the water was then used for washing and laundry – it’s an amazing feat of engineering that must be seen to be believed.
On your tour of Hagi, another must-visit is the Shoka Sonjuku, the private academy used by Shoin Yoshida to teach the youth military arts and politics. One of Japan’s most distinguished intellectuals, many of his students went on to become high-ranking officials in the Meiji Restoration.
Though merchants were ranked lowly in society during the Edo period, it did not stop many of them from prospering. The Kumaya Art Museum belonged to a prominent merchant family during the Edo period, and their wealth can be seen in its sizeable grounds. It now houses a large collection of artefacts, including Japan’s oldest piano.
Hagi’s Artistic Spirit
When you have finished your historical tour of Hagi, stop by the Hagi Sea Mart for a seafood bento box. This is also your chance to stock up on other produce such as strawberries and locally made seafood pastes.
Finally, if you need further evidence that Hagi’s artistic spirit is alive and thriving, drop by pottery gallery and shop JIBITA to view a showcase of traditional and contemporary pieces from 30 different Hagi artists.
(TEXT DENISE LI PHOTOGRAPHY MORITSUGU MAKITAO)
>>Read more about Yamaguchi Food
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The People of Yamaguchi
At Your Service
The word Omotenashi refers to the exceptional levels of service and hospitality with the aim to make each and every one of their customers feel respected and valued. Keiko Koto, Okami, or head hostess of Hagi no Yado
Tomoe in Hagi, tells us more about what Omotenashi means to her.
Can you tell us a bit about the history of the Ryokan?
My husband’s grandfather was the founder of Hagi no Yado Tomoe, though it was previously located somewhere else in Hagi. He was a government official and he founded the Ryokan as he wanted to help develop tourism in Hagi. Most of all, he wanted it to be a place where guests could not only relax, but also be inspired. Till today, his philosophy works as a guiding principle for us when we serve our guests.
How do you deal with difficult guests?
We would attend to them immediately, and ensure we are sincere in helping them solve the problem. To us, nothing is more important than establishing mutual understanding with our guests and if they are happy and smiling at the end of the day, we’ll know that we’ve done our jobs well.
Tell us about some of the more well-known guests that have stayed at the Ryokan.
We have served famous actors and actresses, as well as politicians and members of the royal family. But every guest is important to us, regardless of their status. Most of the time, these people also don’t expect or want special treatment anyway.
What do you hope to achieve with Hagi no Yado Tomoe in the future?
I love Hagi and I want the city to be well-known internationally. I hope the Ryokan can be part of that experience for guests visiting Hagi. Perhaps visitors can consider visiting the city in October during Kimono Week. It was an initiative I helped spearhead about seven years ago; seeing women walking on the streets in Kimonos is quite a sight to behold.
A Great Brew
When he was working at an events company in Tokyo, Hiroshi Aoki tasted an exceptionally fine Sake, and was inspired to start brewing it himself. 20 years on, he is the Toji, or head brewer of Santouka, at Kanemitsu Brewery in Yamaguchi City.
What were some of the challenges you faced when you first started brewing Sake?
To be a good Sake brewer, your five senses need to be extremely sensitive. Starting out, I didn’t know if my senses were attuned to the finer points of the brewing process.
What was the turning point for you?
I spent five years honing my craft, and one year after I became head brewer, I won an award for Sake-brewing. That definitely gave me a much-needed boost of confidence.
In Sake brewing, there are so many factors that are beyond your control. How do you overcome such problems?
You need pay attention to details such as the size, colour, and overall quality of the rice, and be quick to adapt to new and unexpected conditions.
Is Sake-brewing something you wish to pass on to future generations of your family?
Definitely, but I would like the next generation of brewers could develop their own brewing sensibilities. Sake-brewing is an art, and the Sake should be a reflection of the particular brewer’s unique taste and personality.
(TEXT DENISE LI PHOTOGRAPHY MORITSUGU MAKITAO)
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