Located in the southwestern point of Japan, on the island of Kyushu, Nagasaki Prefecture is an area steeped in historical significance and natural beauty. While many may perhaps remember its capital, Nagasaki, as the second, and last, city in the world to suffer an atomic bomb attack, visitors will be surprised to see how the place is now a flourishing international cruise centre with a booming shipbuilding industry.
Nagasaki, whose name means Long Cape, was a mere fishing village of little significance until the Portuguese arrived in 1543. Famously hailed as the first place in Japan to receive western visitors, Nagasaki became a port of trade for the Portuguese as well as the Dutch, and a centre of Christian propagation. Due to its exposure to western influences, many historical ruins and buildings in Nagasaki bear exotic touches unseen anywhere else in Japan.
Beyond Nagasaki, nature lovers will appreciate the myriad richness the land and sea bring to the people here. Shimabara, with its source of spring water, is not just a place with beautiful scenery but one filled with culinary delights. Bask in the warm hospitality of the locals with a homestay at Minami-Shimabara that will let you experience Japan like never before.
Then, venture higher to hot springs town Unzen, where ryokans abound, waiting for you to immerse your tired body in the mineral rich waters that fill their baths. Be awestruck by local attraction Unzen Hell where rock formations, hot springs and smoke combine to create some 30 types of “hell” with bubbling sounds, heat and mist.
Round up your journey of Nagasaki with a visit to Hasami to soak in the artistic vibes of the local community with its traditional and modern take on the famous Hasami Porcelain and, finally, to Sasebo for a jaw-dropping burger that’s caught the attention of some of the cast members of Harry Potter.
In the following pages, you’ll see the mind-boggling array of food, sights, experiences and souvenirs that will shape your impression of Nagasaki. Be warned: it’s going to be quite a ride!
(text deborah tan photography takuya yagi, takeshi taira)
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Shippoku: A Fusion Feast
Cultures meet and meld together best in food. In Nagasaki, there is no stronger evidence of this than the Shippoku Ryori.
The Shippoku feast typically takes place on a red round table. This is perhaps the first and most obvious sign of Chinese influence in Nagasaki cuisine. Long before Japan instituted its isolationist policy, Chinese merchants were already doing trade in Nagasaki. With them, they brought their practice of taking their meals at a round table to symbolise completeness. Where there used to be a red table cloth, the Japanese have transformed into a red lacquer table.
The dishes one sees at a Shippoku feast are an amalgation of Japanese, Chinese and Dutch influences. The baked chicken roll with walnut resembles pate while the stewed pork belly is a deadringer for Chinese dongpo meat. And, the place to go for a Shippoku feast is Fukiro, a 358-year-old establisment.
Ohire opens the feast. It is a bowl of soup with mochi, snapper and seasonal vegetables. The hostess will invite you to drink this soup and you’re not allowed to start on the rest of the food or be served beer until you finish the Ohire.
Once the Ohire is done, it’s time to tuck into the rest of the feast. You’ll find a variety of flavours and textures that’ll tease and tantalise your tastebuds. Besides the stewed pork belly and baked chicken roll, there are deep-fried snapper heads, shrimp paste sandwiches, and many more.
Rice, soup and pickles are served after the main dishes, with the end of the meal marked with a bowl of delicately flavoured umewan – a sweet red bean drink with a salted cherry blossom.
Another name for Shippoku is Omoyai cuisine (meaning “share”). This is because the dishes are served up at once and in a communal fashion. The atmosphere at a Shippoku feast is convival and joyous, which explains why many newlyweds in Nagasaki often opt to celebrate their special day at Fukiro.
(TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY TAKUYA YAGI, TAKESHI TAIRA)
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Faces of Nagasaki
Chef Masaru Kamikakimoto of Pâstisserie Camille
As one of Nagasaki’s five Tourism Meisters, Chef Kamikakimoto’s expert use of the prefecture’s produce is testament of his deep love for the place and its people.
Have you always wanted to be a chef?
Being a chef wasn’t something I had considered at all! I just like the idea of donning the chef’s white uniform. In fact, I wanted to be a PE teacher! However, a leg injury put an end to that dream. The idea of becoming a chef entered my head when I saw an enrollment poster for a French culinary school. After failing twice to obtain a scholarship, I decided to fund my own training there and left for France in 1974. I was 24 years old and already considered too old to train as a chef.
What does it mean to be a Tourism Meister of Nagasaki?
Being a Tourism Meister goes beyond attracting foreign visitors to Nagasaki. It’s also about educating the locals about the prefecture and getting them excited about its produce and culture. I want to promote Nagasaki through our food because we are blessed with a wide variety of seafood and farm produce.
What is it about Nagasaki that you love?
We have a very rich history because Nagasaki was the first place in Japan to receive foreign influences for a long time, from 17th century to 19th century. Our unique geography also means we are able to produce a wide variety of food. The people of Nagasaki are extremely open and warm-hearted. We welcome visitors from within and beyond Japan because we believe everyone should be able to live together in peace.
What or where would you recommend we eat at Nagasaki?
I would like to recommend a meal that includes Nagasaki Wagyu and seafood. Our wagyu beef is No. 1 in Japan! Because of the abundance of fresh produce, it is almost impossible to find bad restaurants in Nagasaki. Most of our restaurants are really good!
Maki Fukuda of Unzen Fukudaya Ryokan
Known for its nice ambience, Fukudaya Ryokan is especially famed for its personable yet highly professional service standards. We speak with its head hostess (okami) on her brand of omotenashi (service and hospitality).
A ryokan is often fronted by its head hostess. Why is that so?
I guess it’s because, unlike a hotel, a ryokan tries to evoke the feeling of home in its guests. The okami is therefore seen as the lady of the house, someone who invites the guests in and prepares the meals.
What is so unique about Fukudaya’s brand of service?
To be honest, we don’t do anything differently so, when we got wind that customers find out service special, we were surprised. What we try to do is placed ourselves in the shoes of our guests and think how they would like to be served. Every morning, the staff also gather for a sharing session to highlight the feedback they are receiving from the guests. This way, we are constantly adapting to their needs.
What is the one must-see you’d recommend to visitors of Unzen?
This is very difficult! But if I had to choose something, I would say do check out Unzen Hell. Usually, people have to travel near the summit of a volcano to catch sight of a landscape like Unzen Hell. But this is right next to the village so it’s very special!
(TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY TAKUYA YAGI, TAKESHI TAIRA)
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