Located less than an hour away by train from Osaka by train is a city steeped in history, and home to some of Japan’s oldest and largest temples. Welcome to the beautiful city of Nara, where fascinating sights and mouthwatering culinary delights await you.
Arriving at Nara is like stepping back in time. As Japan’s first permanent capital, in the 8th century, Nara is filled with many of the country’s national treasures and cultural assets. History buffs and shutterbugs will have a whale of a time at the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara”, a group of eight places that consists of five temples, a Shinto shrine, a palace, and a primeval forest. Collectively, these places have been accorded the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, Nara’s wonders don’t just stop at Nara City.
Venture beyond Nara City and you’ll find yourself in Yoshino and Tenkawa where the uniquely Japanese religion of Shugendo first planted its foundation. Besides its awe-inspiring temples and shrines, these areas are also renowned for their splendid scenery and breath-taking nature spots such as the Mitarai Canyon.
As for foodies, Nara promises to widen to your culinary horizon in a whole new way. The prefecture’s gourmet offerings are delicate in flavours and varied in textures. Kuzu (Japanese arrowroot), which can be found in abundance in this region, is used to create unique sweets perfect for the traveller in need of a mid-day snack. In the following page, you’ll learn just why this plant is so loved by locals and how they use it in their cuisine.
Don’t miss out on visiting the place where “The Water Of Gods” flow. Miwa is steeped with a deep respect for its eponymous mountain, which locals revered as a deity. It is here at Miwa where you will also find Japan’s oldest shrine. Although there used to be several sake breweries here, there is now just one remaining so be sure you get your hands on a bottle of sake when you’re here!
But what ultimately draws visitors to Nara is its strong atmosphere of spirituality. Mantou Kuyo-e is a festival that happens on August 15 every year and, during this time, the famous Todai-ji Temple will light up some 2,500 lamps on its grounds. These lanterns are dedicated to the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) as well as to departed family members who are believed to visit this world during the “Obon” festival. Be prepared for a massive crowd of people if you’re visiting the Todai-ji during Mantou Kuyo-e, for it is only at this time that a little window at the top of the main hall is opened so that people can view the Great Buddha’s face from the outside. Bear with the long queues and you can also enter the temple to see this statue up close and personal.
The next few pages will show you even more of Nara’s wonders. It’s a journey bound to enrich your mind and soul.
(Text Deborah Tan • Photography YUUKI TAKESHITA)
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Sweet Beginnings
“Less is more” aptly describes the food at Nara and, nothing embodies the meaning better than the prefecture’s kuzu desserts.
Yoshino in Nara is famous for kuzu, Japanese arrowroot. The kuzu, with its elegant purple blossom, is a symbol of Nara and well-loved by the literati back in the days of ancient Japan. From this plant, a powder is produced and the resulting starch is used in the making of many desserts — a must-eat when you’re visiting Nara.
The kuzu root has been used by healers for almost 2,000 years for its ability to quell digestive complaints. In summer, the preferred way to consume kuzu comes in the form of kuzu mochi or kuzu kiri (noodles). When the weather turns chilly, the kuzu powder can be dissolved in warm water as a remedy for coughs and colds.
Nakai Shunpu-do is a family-owned confectionary in Yoshino selling kuzu desserts in a number of forms, from little crystal buns called manju to dry flower-shaped sweets called higashi.
Boss and chef Takashi Yoshimi took over the family business more than a decade ago. He had the vision to focus on using one unique ingredient in all the desserts created by him. “The quality of kuzu in this region is second to none; it makes perfect sense to use it as my principal ingredient.”
Visitors should not leave without trying his freshly made kuzu mochi and kuzu kiri. Using just kuzu powder and boiling water, Chef Yoshimi is able to create two desserts with distinctly different textures. The kuzu mochi, as its name suggests, is chewy and best enjoyed with soybean powder. The kuzu kiri is smooth and slippery, and dipped in a brown sugar syrup. The chef is insistent that these desserts are best consumed within 10 minutes, so you can’t buy them to go.
So particular is he about eating these sweets right, he even had special chopsticks made. The hexagonal tips hold the kuzu mochi and kuzu kiri with just the right amount of grip so that their tastes and textures are not compromised in any way.
Uncomplicated yet unyielding, kuzu desserts are truly in a class of their own and, your visit to Nara will not be complete without having a taste of them.
(Text Deborah Tan • Photography YUUKI TAKESHITA)
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Keepers of Traditions
JUN NAKAGAWA
The 13th president of Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten Co. Ltd is using modern designs to promote traditional Japanese crafts.
What is the rationale behind the products created by your company?
Coming from a family that specialises in Japanese linen, I realise that the problem behind sustaining traditional Japanese crafts isn’t about continuity (looking for people to take over). Rather, it is always about survival, making people want to buy products made by Japanese craftsmen.
So, we take what people love about modern goods – their convenience and practicality, for example – and combine them with traditional Japanese crafts.
How do you go about marketing to the younger generation of Japanese then?
People usually think that we should not change anything about traditional crafts because then it would be inauthentic. But a change of thinking is needed if we want to make traditional crafts applicable for use in our everyday life. For me, I believe it is important to articulate a story about the craft so that people will understand why they should buy these products over overseas mass produced goods.
What three places in Nara would you recommend to visitors?
While the Todai-ji Temple is a must-see for all, I would recommend that visitors explore the back of the temple too. There you’ll find an area with several smaller temples.
The second place I would recommend is the Nigatsu-do (Feburary Hall). It’s a beautiful hall up on the side of Mount Wakakusa and it provides a great view of Nara City’s ancient structures.
Lastly, do check out Asuka. It’s a historic village located south of Nara City. Here, you’ll find lots of ancient structures.
TETSUJI MATSUBAYASHI
He’s a trained Shugendo monk who is also a businessman passionate about promoting the nature surrounding Nara.
How did you come to set up Sasayuri-ann ?
My own residence is about 15 minutes away from the villa. 15 years ago, I started a company and my business required me to commute to Osaka regularly. I went by this place very frequently and decided that I wanted to start a business in hospitality. This place has great potential and is a draw for both foreign and domestic tourists.
Sasayuri-ann is a thatched roof house. There are very few of them left in Japan because when we switched from coal to oil as our energy source, many houses became ceramic roof houses. Staying at Sasayuri-ann is like travelling back in time. We have a central fireplace in the villa where guests can sit around to cook a meal or just relax and have a conversation.
How does a stay at Sasayuri-ann work?
It’s a communal sleeping area in the main hall where the fireplace is. The hall can hold up to 15 people so it’s a great accommodation for families or a group of friends. We provide in-house catering services where guests can select their meals from a menu. Guests also have the option of cooking for themselves; we have a modern kitchen fitted in the house too.
What are some things one can do when they stay at Sasayuri-ann?
Given the beautiful scenery surrounding the villa, Sasayuri-ann is definitely a great place for a retreat. You can practice yoga while taking in the views of the mountains and rice fields, or do a bit of meditation. For those who want to be more active, our bicycles are free to use. We can also arrange activities such as hiking, canoeing, or trekking, for you. The villa is close to a waterfall where ninjas used to go to train themselves – that’s a trek you definitely want to make.
(Text Deborah Tan • Photography YUUKI TAKESHITA)
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